Monthly Archives: March 2015

Wall Oven Tutorial

Wall Oven Tutorial

Ever done a budget kitchen? Drove on down to the box store to find the in stock cabinets lacking. No fridge end panels, etc. With a little work you can make make your own. I will do an article on color matching a little later. Thats not so hard either.

Most kitchen cabinets consist of a four or a five sided box and a face frame.
the box side attachments are your choice. Nails, screws, biscuits , pocket screws. I use pocket screws made by Kreg and their jigs. I have used all the above methods but pocket screws are fast and hold very well. In the world of production wood working, faster is a good thing.
Most wall oven cabinet units measure 33 inches wide to the outside width and 84 inches tall.
Wall oven appliances vary in height so check your manufactures cut sheet. Pay attention to electrical requirements and box locations! Get the cut sheet for the appliance. These are tight fits and you do not want an improperly placed electric box stopping you from pushing your oven in.

Use whatever sheet good works for you. I like maple plywood because it stains and paints well. If the sides are visible then you need to get whatever wood the other cabinets are. The budget brands are usually oak or maple. Below is an example of the build design. The top is cabinet storage space with doors added. the bottom is a drawer unit. Middle holds our oven. This article is a face frame cabinet with 2 inch styles and rails. The center rail size is dictated by oven height. You will need the dimension of your wall oven to determine the width you need. Most wall ovens are 30 inches wide and require a 29.5 inch opening. I made this cabinet 33 inches wide using 2 inch face frames. I went with 33 inches because that is a standard cabinet size. think 3 inch modules in the USA. I also had a factory 33 inch by 12 inch high cabinet to go on top of it. All that was required was to trim 1/4 off each side on the inside face frames of the oven opening. If you follow the math 33 inch wide box – 4 inches of face frame equals 29 inside opening, 1/2 removed from inside equals 29.5.

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It should take 2 sheets of plywood to make this. You want to rip 23 1/4 wide pieces. two will be crosscut 84 inches long for the sides. The cross cut for the width pieces will be your outside dimension less your material thickness x2 . On my 33 wide cabinet that would make my inside pieces 31 1/2 using 3/4 sides .

On the cabinet back. I like to keep the stove area with out a back. I mark out the exposed area for a dado cut for a 1/4 pane or 1/2 panel  or you can also step in the panels the width of you material.

See pic below

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I purposely left out the dimensions of the toe kick. You will need to calculate that off you existing boxes. Matter fact I left out most dimensions.

 

 

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When assembling cabinets or shelves I use scrap wood cut to the inside dimension as an index.
If I have an inside space of 12 inches, I cut a couple 12 inch scraps and place them inside as I attach the next panel.
Because the Kreg screws push the panel over slightly as they go in. The panel spacing is perfect.The Spacer blocks will be tight to remove. The price you pay for accuracy.

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Those sticks you see are the spacers for indexing the next panel. The key to this is setting the first panel perfectly.

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The panel on the left is a panel already set. I am screwing in the right panel from the other side into the index stick. I moved it to the center to set the center screw  without bowing the panel.

When building up the face frame you can make it overhang the edges on the outside an 1/8 each. That helps attaching to adjacent cabinets.

I like to layout the face frame pieces on a large table for assembly. You can use kreg screws on them as well, just clamp both edges down before you screw them together. Otherwise they WILL offset from each other. still editing, give me a couple more days

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Use glue,the pocket screws are not that strong by themselves.

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Clamp you pieces before attaching your pocket screw

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You will notice that I only made this 6 feet tall. This was done because I had a Cabinet sitting on top of it. That detail saved me from having to make a cabinet door to match.

Stair rail install part 3 metal balusters

 

 

installing the metal balusters

oak railing wit metal baluster

Oak rail with Metal Balusters

We do have a you tube video on how to install metal balusters on this site. Once you have the stair railings in it’s pretty much done. I will quickly summarize.  I had drilled the rails prior to installing between the newel posts. I loosen one of the newel posts so it will move far enough to install the railing past the rail bolt. About 2 1/2 inches will usually do. Connect the rail using a rail bolt wrench. Get the rail level and even before getting it tight. With the rail in, its time to drill the bottom holes. I use a laser to transfer the location to the floor. You can also set the rail to the floor and transfer the marks with a square. If you needed to cut the rail longer or shorter because of a  wall out of plumb, make sure to index the rail on a newel before marking.

I cut the metal balusters with a Milwaukee brand portable band saw. I have used angle grinders with cutoff wheels. Second option can be done but take extreme care. Hot metal sparks are dangerous on skin, eyes and clothing. Nothing like feeling a little warm, then discover the cause being your cotton shirt is flaming. Leather is recommended. Fire suppression equipment maybe in order. My advise now is spring for the bandsaw. Rental shops carry them for cheap.

Once again I digress.

Metal balusters come with one end rounded at the very tip. I cut that 1 inch off but leaving enough to see which end was round so you can orientate it to the top when we install. This is helpful to keep all pieces symmetrical as we put them in. You don’t want baskets or any piece with a pattern to be at different elevations with each other.

 

 

We use PC7 epoxy. It’s black to match the iron balusters. Cleans off easily with a damp rag. Watch our you tube video on the procedure.